What You Need to Know to Climb in Cochamó

Alan Winter

What You Need to Know to Climb in Cochamó

Located in Northern Patagonia, Cochamó is a world-class destination for big wall climbing, renowned for its majestic granite walls rising between wild valleys. Often called the "Yosemite of South America," it offers a unique and remote experience far from the crowds. However, thorough preparation is crucial: it's an isolated area with no rescue services, no phone signal, and no waste disposal, meaning everything you bring in must be taken out. Self-sufficiency and respect for the environment are essential for enjoying this place responsibly and safely.

How to get to Cochamó ?

To get to Cochamó you have different options:

  • From SantiagoYou can fly, take a bus, or drive along Route 5 to Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas.
  • From Puerto Varas/Puerto Montt:

To reach the town of Cochamó, take Route 5 toward Puerto Varas. From there, follow Route 225, which runs along Lake Llanquihue toward Ensenada. After passing Ensenada, take the detour toward Ralún-Cochamó. You will cross the bridge over the Petrohué River, and after traveling about 17 km more on a partly paved but narrow and winding road, you will arrive in the town of Cochamó.

Then, continue for another 3 km until you reach the bridge over the Cochamó River and turn left. From there, it's 6 km along a dirt road to the Visitor Center. Near the Center, you'll find several parking options where you can leave your car for a daily fee. Remember that access to the trail closes at 3 p.m., and you'll have to wait until the next day if you arrive later.

The trip takes around 2 hours

From Puerto Varas, you can also take a bus that departs from the center and drops you off at the Cochamó River crossing. From there, you need to take a transfer that will take you to the end of the road where the trekking begins.

  • From BarilocheIf you're coming from Bariloche, you can cross the border into Chile via the Cardenal Samoré Pass and take the detour to Cascada-Ensenada after passing through Entre Lagos. This route not only saves you 50 km but also offers spectacular views, although there are no major supply centers along the way. Make sure to arrive on time, as the border closes at 8 PM and even earlier outside of the summer season.
  • From south Patagonia:

If you're driving from the Carretera Austral, you can reach Cochamó via roads and ferries connecting Pumalín and Hornopirén, or by taking a ferry from Puerto Aysén or Chaitén to Chiloé or Puerto Montt. Check for details on schedules and routes here https://www.navimag.com/ https://www.navimag.com/ los distintos ferries para horarios y precios.

Where to park the car

Upon arriving in Cochamó, you can park your car at Don Claudio's parking lot (also known as Don Cayo), where you will be charged a daily fee, and your car will be safe while you climb.

Supplies

I recommend you to stock up on food before heading up to the valley, preferably in Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas, as you won't find much variety in the village of Cochamó, although it can still be an option. Repackage everything to minimize the amount of trash you'll have to take back down.

Hiking up to the valley

The trek to La Junta, the base camp for most climbers, involves a 13 km hike with a 350-meter elevation gain. It is important to note that the trail closes at 3 p.m., so if you arrive late at the Visitor Center, you will have to wait until the next day to begin your ascent, even if you have a confirmed reservation. If you have heavy equipment, you can hire porters, who for $40,000 CLP will help transport up to 60 kg in two bags of 30 kg each. If you plan to hire porters, we recommend contacting Ana, with whom you can arrange your ascent, or going to the end of the road to speak with the muleteers and coordinate the ascent with porters for the following day.

Camping

Cochamó offers several camping options in the valley. It is essential to book in advance, especially during the high season, as spots in Cochamó’s camps fill up quickly. Here are some camping options:

Valles y sectores de escalada

In Cochamó, the best valleys to climb are:

  • Valle del Trinidad
  • Anfiteatro
  • Valle de La Junta
  • Valle de la Paloma

On rainy days, the "Pared Seca" is ideal for sport climbing, as it remains relatively dry even during heavy rain.

Strategies to climb in Cochamó

Multiple days

If your goal is to spend several days in the valley, it's best to set up a base camp at La Junta and plan your climbs from there. It's a good idea to pay for porters to transport food and equipment; this is a very practical option if you plan to stay for an extended period. From your base camp, you'll have the convenience to move and climb in the different valleys, whether for the day or for multiple days.

Recommended Routes

Cochamó is the perfect place for those seeking multi-pitch climbing challenges. Here are some recommended routes to get started:

  • Camp Farm (7 pitches, 5.10+)Just 40 minutes from the campsites, this route offers a combination of slabs and cracks with a spectacular view.
  • Apnea (2 pitches, 5.10)A short but classic route, featuring a second pitch with one of the most iconic finger cracks in Cochamó.
  • Homo Santa (10 pitches, 5.11a)It's a very good route that splits into two sections: the lower section, Homosapies, has 5 pitches, and Send it like Santa has 5 more. Halfway up the route, you have the option to climb to the tip of the spur for a rappel down to the scree on the right.
  • Mister M (14 pitches 5.10+)It's a long route that has a total length of 750 meters. While most of its pitches are easy, if you're not solid in the style and grade, it can turn into a long day of climbing all those meters.

More challenging routes

  • Todo Cambia 5.11c 9 pitches 450 mts Incredible route where the first five pitches are fantastic! The second pitch, known as the "enduro corner," makes you feel like you're in a climbing movie as you ascend a vertical corner using a #0.75 and #1 until you reach a traversing roof with a #2—what a luxurious pitch! After that, there are more great pitches and an adventure navigating toward the summit.
  • Al Centro y Adentro 5.11+ 12 pitches 455 mtsOne of the most classic routes that summits one of the most beautiful walls in the Anfiteatro. More information about the route here: https://andestopacific.cl/al-centro-y-adentro-cochamo/
  • Entre Cristales y Cóndores 5.13b  11 pitches 470 mtsThis is a route recently established by
    Thomas Gilmore and Kevin Heinric in Cochamó, located to the left of Al centro y adentro. It is one of the best routes I’ve had the pleasure of climbing in Cochamó. It features sustained climbing at 5.11, dominated by vertical finger and off-finger cracks. Instead of finishing with the last hard pitches, you can head toward the final pitches of Al centro y adentro, as we did. Siebe Vanhee commented after making the first FFA of the route, “It’s one of the best routes I’ve climbed in my life.”
  • Gardens of the Galaxy 5.11c A0 25 pitches 840 mtsA very classic route that ascends the entire south face of Cerro La Junta. It’s a full adventure of 25 pitches that takes you through excellent cracks, chimneys, slabs, and some incredible forests halfway up the wall.
  • No Hay Hoyes 5.11c 6 pitches 200 mts A great route with amazing cracks, making it an excellent option on hot days since it's short and doesn't get much sun during the day.

What gear I should bring?

To enjoy Cochamó, you need to be well-equipped. Here are some essential items:

  • RackA double rack of cams up to #4, with a set of small offsets and a variety of stoppers. A couple of large cams (Camalot #5 and #6) can also be useful for some routes.
  • RopesYou will be able to climb most of the climbs with a 60 mts rope.
  • Cord: Algunas rutas poco escaladas pueden requerir cordin para reemplazar los cordines antiguos en anclajes en de los rápeles. Es importante andar con cordin extra y cuchillo.

Where can I find the routes info?

You can find the topos in the bivys or also online in cochamo.com and mountainproject.com.

What happens if I have an accident ?

Cochamó is an isolated area with no medical assistance or rescue equipment. In case of an emergency, you are responsible for your own evacuation.

Is a good idea to:

  • Have a good logistic of your visit and climbs
  • Have experience climbing big walls in remote environments
  • Bring a satelital communication device as a InReach SOS
  • Have knowledge of self-rescue
  • Know about wilderness first aid

Conservation and organization in Cochamó valley

The Cochamó Valley is a protected area in collaboration with private landowners, muleteers, the indigenous community, and the Cochamó Valley Organization (OVC). Although it is not a national park and does not have official protection from the Chilean state, the valley relies on the cooperation of visitors for its conservation. Help keep it in good condition:

  • Respect the private property and stay in the predetermined trails
  • Camp just in the camping area
  • Bring back all your garbage
  • Never do fire in other place that is not a predetermined area in the camping

If you want to contribute to the preservation of the valley, you can make a donation to the OVC at This link.

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What You Need to Know to Climb in Cochamó

Located in Northern Patagonia, Cochamó is a world-class destination for big wall climbing, featuring towering granite walls in remote, wild valleys. With no rescue services or waste management, this is a truly isolated place, making meticulous planning and self-reliance essential for your safety. This article is designed to help you plan your trip and enjoy this incredible adventure safely and responsibly.
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